Telegraph Hill offers an unexpected and delightful getaway in the heart of San Francisco, providing visitors with a welcome reprieve from the city’s frenetic pace. Squeezed between the North Beach neighborhood and San Francisco Bay, this soaring landmark - just a stone’s throw from Fisherman’s Wharf, Russian Hill, and China Town - can be reached by foot or by car.
For those up to the challenge, foot is the most interesting way to go. The Filbert Steps climb the east side of the hill in a steep ascent that provides visitors with the sense of clambering up a tree in the backyards of this densely populated hillside, as they scramble above the glistening waters of the Bay and reap the sense of reward that comes from reaching the top.
Wild Parrots of Telegraph Hill
While working their way up the Filbert Steps, sightseers might hear the squawking of large flocks of parrots and see them swooping from tree to tree along the lush hillside. Indeed, the parrots are renowned residents of Telegraph Hill, made famous, in part, by such efforts as the documentary film The Wild Parrots of Telegraph Hill.
Yet how the parrots made Telegraph Hill their home is a bit of a mystery. It’s generally believed that the original birds had been caught in the South American wild and imported into the United States. But it’s unclear how they had escaped and ended up in this part of town. Whatever their history, they’re now as much a part of the terrain as the abundant vegetation that sweeps up the hill.
Telegraph Hill’s Coit Tower
Upon reaching the top of the Filbert Steps, one of the rewards that visitors will find is Coit Tower. Built in 1933, this 210-foot structure commemorates the city’s fire department and the tower’s benefactor, Lillie Hitchcock Coit. According to The Seattle Times article “San Francisco’s Coit Tower beckons with views, murals and quirky history” (February 10, 2008), Miss Lil, born in 1843, “had a thing for San Francisco fire engines and the volunteer firemen who manned them.”
Although the outside of Coit Tower resembles a fire hose nozzle - many still speculate whether this design was intentional - the inside of the tower is a bit of an artist’s showcase, with its 10-foot-tall murals that circle the lobby walls. According to The Seattle Times article, the murals were painted by 26 artists in a “socialist-realist style” that portrays California life during the Depression.
Breathtaking Views of San Francisco Bay
Coit Tower is set in the center of Pioneer Park, which crowns Telegraph Hill with a fragrant spread of eucalyptus trees. Although the most spectacular views can be found atop the tower, Pioneer Park provides its own majestic vistas and is, of course, a less expensive alternative for those who would prefer not to pay to squeeze into the tower’s elevator.
Whether looking out from the tower or from the park, visitors will find extraordinary views in every direction. From the Golden Gate Bridge to Alcatraz to Treasure Island and beyond, Telegraph Hill offers one of the most scenic panoramas in the city. Indeed, for anyone touring around San Francisco, Telegraph Hill is definitely worth the climb.
R.H. Sheldon - A number of years ago, long before I moved to the Northwest, I hitchhiked with a friend across Washington state to northern Idaho. We got ...
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